Some plants (for example chrysanthemums, tomatoes and strawberries for fruiting under glass) like an even richer compost, such as J.I. If you prefer the John Innes (J.I.) type, then use No 2, which contains twice as much fertilizer and chalk as No 1. Richer composts (those containing more plant foods) are generally used for potting on. Small moves allow plants to put out new roots quickly. This can result in root rot and the possible death of the plant. The reason for moving only to the next size pot is that plants dislike a large volume of soil around their roots because they cannot absorb water from all of it and, therefore, it is liable to remain wet. Plants should be moved to the next size of pot, for instance from a 9cm (3^ in) to a 13cm (5 in), from a 13cm (5 in) to a 15cm (6 in) and so on. However, it is worthwhile noting that some plants, such as pelargoniums, are more floriferous (bear more flowers) when slightly pot-bound. If this happens the plants will suffer from lack of food, growth will be poor and they will dry out very rapidly and require frequent watering. Plants need potting on to prevent them becoming ‘pot-bound’ (when the roots are packed very tightly in the pot). Then they can be returned to the greenhouse bench. Remember to leave about 13mm (3/4 in) between the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot to allow room for watering.Īfter potting off, water the plants thoroughly, using a fine rose on the watering can, to settle them in further. Some soilless composts, however, require little or no firming, so check the manufacturer’s instructions first. Make sure the compost is pushed right down to the bottom. Give the pot a sharp tap on the bench to settle the compost well down and lightly firm all round with your fingers. Hold the rooted cuttings or seedlings in the centre of the pot, with the roots well spread out, and trickle compost all around until it is slightly higher than the rim of the pot. Place a layer of compost over the drainage material and firm lightly with your fingers. If you are using soilless compost, crocks or drainage materials are not normally necessary. When there are some drainage holes provided, place a few crocks (pieces of broken clay pots or stones) over the drainage holes and cover with a thin layer of roughage such as coarse peat or partially-rotted leaf mould. No 1, or an equivalent soilless type consisting of loam, peat, coarse sand, John Innes base fertilizer and ground chalk.ĭrainage material is not necessary in plastic pots as the holes are devised so that the compost does not leak. When seedlings are large enough to handle easily they can be treated in the same way (as an alternative to pricking out into trays See Sowing Seeds Article).įor this first potting, use a fairly weak compost, such as John Innes. Nowadays plastic pots are generally used in preference to clay, but whichever type you have ensure that they are clean and dry before using them.Īs soon as cuttings have developed a food root system they should be carefully lifted from their trays and put into individual pots about 7-5-9cm (3-3 1/2 in) in diameter. The basic terms used in transplanting are potting off’, when young rooted cuttings or seedlings are moved from trays into pots, and ‘potting on’, when the more advanced plants are transferred to bigger pots. Here are some tips at what you need to do with your young plants to keep them happy and growing.
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